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Sunday, January 1, 2012

Right then..check list..

In a few days I get key hole surgery on my right hand.This is going to be a slight pain when it comes to the guitars and the plans for the ow1.
I've decided to do all the work on the crank myself, to remove the surface rust.It will take some time, but at I feel the steel wool/ autosol will be sufficient. I tried it out and it came up okay, so just requires a few hours. The cams also came out okay.
So, the easiest way forwards is to actually use a yzf bottom end, which I have..with the original top casing.
Then I can measure up for the big ends for the journal sizes required with plastigage.
It's always imperative when your mixing up crankcase halves.
The best way forwards would be to ensure the casing halves are cleaned and then blasted and then cleaned again. As well as all the other parts that are in the box. Either that or simply get on and put the engine together and see if she'll fire up. Thats one of my main issues, impatience!
I'll have to find somewhere where I can clean up the parts and then blast them. I'm hoping that a few mates can come in the picture who work in some serious workshops.

Basically the studs need removed, the casings cleaned on one set, and then the same again on a YZF bottom end which requires a tear down first. Once this is done, the rest is fairly straight forwards.
There are 3 sets of barrels which apparently are the same barrels for YZF as they are for Ow1s.
The main issue is that YZF pistons will not work in an ow1. the squish, head and piston size are different.
So, I'm going with what I believe are YEC pistons that were in the box, and obviously when it comes to fitment I should see as the small ends on the Titanium rods are 18mm.
Due to the markings under the pistons, I'm fairly optimistic they are the ones that came out of the engine.
The race engine has covers for the starter motor and alternator which can of course can be removed for the race engine for the road.I suppose it does add weight as well as friction, but as there is no other way around it if I'm going to use the original engine in the frame again.
So basically I'm confident I could get the engine up and running fairly quickly. However, there are a few  questions to be answered first, like if the small ends are too worn and require new sleeves.
Measuring tool will have to come out. As there isn't any real panic, the best way would be to ensure I don't rush the jobs in hand.

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