Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Steve Jones Aged Les Paul Custom shop
Here was the second guitar , brand new, I was asked to put out into cyberspace..cool guitar indeed!
todays exotica included...
a guitar made in only 15 examples by the finest luthiers in japan at Ibanez.
This guitar was made for the 100th Anniversary of the Horisho Gakki Group and it's as rare as Unicorn shit. I was asked to see if I could get any interest for the guitar on the global market.
Most of the Ibanez fans noted their dislike for this guitar but I have to say it's an incredible creation , more a work of art than just simply another run of the mill. If I had the funds I would buy it myself. For a start it's an investment for life with only 15 pcs ever made..
This guitar was made for the 100th Anniversary of the Horisho Gakki Group and it's as rare as Unicorn shit. I was asked to see if I could get any interest for the guitar on the global market.
Most of the Ibanez fans noted their dislike for this guitar but I have to say it's an incredible creation , more a work of art than just simply another run of the mill. If I had the funds I would buy it myself. For a start it's an investment for life with only 15 pcs ever made..
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
lurking Fuzz...and some BassBalls...
This LittleBigMuff PY has been packed away for a while so I thought I'd dust it off and start trying to see what I could get out of the 79 original Electro Harmonix Fuzz pedal..
Before this happened however, to my surprise something was picking up what sounded like "russian radio" through the Marshall...odd indeed..
So, back to the pedal..picked up the 61 melody maker (gemini scatter-wound mini-humbuckers) and fiddled..has to be said, the Electro Harmonix pedals have a reputation for the right reasons and this littleBigMuff PY tin box can sound gritty if you get the right volumes sorted..
There are two settings for the tone. One I call Buzz saw as its max treble buzz saw fuzz which can also be used well..the bass setting can be really deep and imo requires all volumes opened wide open to get a really great sound...unfortunately it was getting late so I couldn't really push it..but it was sounding good.
And talking of EH pedals, here is another interesting pedal that can be used for bass or guitar...you get some seriously wild sounds out of this...big fan of funk here..
Monday, January 9, 2012
just as well be with the trash...
And here it is..softly wrapped and getting pepped with 6 tabs a day...no idea whats happening under..suffice to say they recommend stitching a mail ligament back together which puts me in a cast of some type for over 9 weeks...and then rehab...
testing a few of the pedals with the Washburn Bantam
So now the hand is currently wrapped up, the guitar play will have to be on minimum.
But I thought I'd get some of the pedals out and dust them down.
Old school pedals with early 80's Ibanez analog or Boss. Also have a couple of 79 Elektro Harmonix.
Fun to muck around , although I'm wondering if some of them are needing a service..
I also dusted down the Washburn Bantam.A guitar from the 80s with a then price tag of 1000 dollars..if you find one, buy it! They are incredible headless guitars!
Sunday, January 8, 2012
Audi
...has to be said that AUDI are creating some very nice looking cars and like the R8, giving them some serious tools under the bonnet!
"ootchaKunt"............
Troy Bayliss road testing the Ducati 1198...a classic photograph..
apparently he didn't crash the bike...so what happened next was probably completely controlled...
awesome capture and a definite "ootchakunt"...
....speed..
To me, this amazing photograph (which I have in large format hanging in my living room), encapsulates speed. It's also a great representation of the race bike absolute. On wooden boards without brakes on a Harley Davidson board racer of 1000cc. Inspiring photograph!
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
things may be different after tomorrow, Jim..
Have to be at the hospital at 06:45 in the morning.
Thats sick to begin with...
But then it's operation time at 07:30
I hate going under the blade...tiresome...hoping the results are positive anyway.Having read all the forums about the TFCC ligament..it's a roll of the dice...
To look forward to...
Nice wee test by MCN. Obviously this bike is more standard and heavier as it isn't graced with the same carbs, crank, carbon fibre, dymags etc..than my project..but it sounds and runs great all the same!
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
YEC pistons for R1 show same indentation as mystery pistons for Owl
This is great news as I now believe the pistons with the Ow01 are indeed 12,8 comp 3 ring YEC kit pistons which are in new condition.
That makes the race engine complete but still requiring a lot of clean up which I'm planning to do myself.
Everything will have to be cleaned and measured. Back in the day I rebuilt my 1100 WT engine and blue printed the engine to a point and the ow01 will require precision.
Whilst I scoured the web for these pistons I also came across some interesting pictures of a Ferrari F1 racing car. Talk about lack of skirting!
..and something you don't see everyday, a genuine NR750 spam piston kit...no prices..
Monday, January 2, 2012
OW01 titanium rod and piston
Found these pictures on an engineering site out there in cyberspace. Basically a rod and piston from an AMA winning OW01. My four will be used as opposed to being used as a paper weight.
work in progress part 2
just been putting together some stuff and by all accounts I'm pushing the tempo on this.
No plectrum a playing through the neck pickup and through a Marshall Silver Jubilee clean.
Sunday, January 1, 2012
Right then..check list..
In a few days I get key hole surgery on my right hand.This is going to be a slight pain when it comes to the guitars and the plans for the ow1.
I've decided to do all the work on the crank myself, to remove the surface rust.It will take some time, but at I feel the steel wool/ autosol will be sufficient. I tried it out and it came up okay, so just requires a few hours. The cams also came out okay.
So, the easiest way forwards is to actually use a yzf bottom end, which I have..with the original top casing.
Then I can measure up for the big ends for the journal sizes required with plastigage.
It's always imperative when your mixing up crankcase halves.
The best way forwards would be to ensure the casing halves are cleaned and then blasted and then cleaned again. As well as all the other parts that are in the box. Either that or simply get on and put the engine together and see if she'll fire up. Thats one of my main issues, impatience!
I'll have to find somewhere where I can clean up the parts and then blast them. I'm hoping that a few mates can come in the picture who work in some serious workshops.
Basically the studs need removed, the casings cleaned on one set, and then the same again on a YZF bottom end which requires a tear down first. Once this is done, the rest is fairly straight forwards.
There are 3 sets of barrels which apparently are the same barrels for YZF as they are for Ow1s.
The main issue is that YZF pistons will not work in an ow1. the squish, head and piston size are different.
So, I'm going with what I believe are YEC pistons that were in the box, and obviously when it comes to fitment I should see as the small ends on the Titanium rods are 18mm.
Due to the markings under the pistons, I'm fairly optimistic they are the ones that came out of the engine.
The race engine has covers for the starter motor and alternator which can of course can be removed for the race engine for the road.I suppose it does add weight as well as friction, but as there is no other way around it if I'm going to use the original engine in the frame again.
So basically I'm confident I could get the engine up and running fairly quickly. However, there are a few questions to be answered first, like if the small ends are too worn and require new sleeves.
Measuring tool will have to come out. As there isn't any real panic, the best way would be to ensure I don't rush the jobs in hand.
I've decided to do all the work on the crank myself, to remove the surface rust.It will take some time, but at I feel the steel wool/ autosol will be sufficient. I tried it out and it came up okay, so just requires a few hours. The cams also came out okay.
So, the easiest way forwards is to actually use a yzf bottom end, which I have..with the original top casing.
Then I can measure up for the big ends for the journal sizes required with plastigage.
The best way forwards would be to ensure the casing halves are cleaned and then blasted and then cleaned again. As well as all the other parts that are in the box. Either that or simply get on and put the engine together and see if she'll fire up. Thats one of my main issues, impatience!
I'll have to find somewhere where I can clean up the parts and then blast them. I'm hoping that a few mates can come in the picture who work in some serious workshops.
Basically the studs need removed, the casings cleaned on one set, and then the same again on a YZF bottom end which requires a tear down first. Once this is done, the rest is fairly straight forwards.
There are 3 sets of barrels which apparently are the same barrels for YZF as they are for Ow1s.
The main issue is that YZF pistons will not work in an ow1. the squish, head and piston size are different.
So, I'm going with what I believe are YEC pistons that were in the box, and obviously when it comes to fitment I should see as the small ends on the Titanium rods are 18mm.
Due to the markings under the pistons, I'm fairly optimistic they are the ones that came out of the engine.
The race engine has covers for the starter motor and alternator which can of course can be removed for the race engine for the road.I suppose it does add weight as well as friction, but as there is no other way around it if I'm going to use the original engine in the frame again.
So basically I'm confident I could get the engine up and running fairly quickly. However, there are a few questions to be answered first, like if the small ends are too worn and require new sleeves.
Measuring tool will have to come out. As there isn't any real panic, the best way would be to ensure I don't rush the jobs in hand.
Friday, December 30, 2011
Engine parts inspecting and a polishing rag..
Went down to the bike today and got some solvol on the frame.By all accounts the person who previously owned the bike put a lot of time and effort into polishing the frame and after a few rounds with the solvol the frame had a mirror finish. So that was fun!
Then I had a look at the box of parts that currently is filled with a genuine and neglected ow01 engine.
everything is in a pretty sorry state but not past the point of no return.
The cases need a cleaning and the major job and decision is to decide to try and rescue the bottom case or replace with a YZF which is the same. The only difference will be of course that the bottom end shells will have to be measured and the correct set purchased.
What has happened is that the previous owner managed to crack the casing by over tightening an engine bolt.There has been an attempt at a repair and the case has been welded.Just requires more work. I'm really tempted to try and rescue the case. However...I do have a spare bottom end from a YZF as well which came with the bike, so common sense would be to just use the bottom case and retain the top case..anyway, more on that later..
Basically the starting point is to clean up all the parts.
Then I had a look at the box of parts that currently is filled with a genuine and neglected ow01 engine.
everything is in a pretty sorry state but not past the point of no return.
The cases need a cleaning and the major job and decision is to decide to try and rescue the bottom case or replace with a YZF which is the same. The only difference will be of course that the bottom end shells will have to be measured and the correct set purchased.
What has happened is that the previous owner managed to crack the casing by over tightening an engine bolt.There has been an attempt at a repair and the case has been welded.Just requires more work. I'm really tempted to try and rescue the case. However...I do have a spare bottom end from a YZF as well which came with the bike, so common sense would be to just use the bottom case and retain the top case..anyway, more on that later..
Basically the starting point is to clean up all the parts.
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